Poring Hot Spring

Poring Hot Spring is a nature reserve located 40 km away on the southeast fringe of Kinabalu Park, just 19 km from Ranau town. It lies along the lowland rainforest extension and ridge routes that flow from the base of Mount Kinabalu towards the north, south and eastern regions of the Crocker Range. The second most visited destination next to Kinabalu Park itself, it is most unfortunately a tacky blend of an eco-luxury resort, recreational water park and nature activities, thanks to the privatisation of Kinabalu Park. If you do manage to get off the beaten paths and tourist traps into the outlying forests, then Poring may well be worth the travel to discover its wonderful diversity of plants, trees, flowers and wildlife that thrive in these humid lowlands. For climbers that have just finished scaling Mount Kinabalu, Poring is the next most natural destination to relax and rejuvenate their tired legs in hot springs, or so the tour companies claim.

The large booth you see when entering the premises, just before the car park next to the gate, houses the ticketing counter. In line with discriminatory practices, the entrance fee 's MYR15 for international visitors while Malaysians pay MYR3 each. The main attraction in Poring is quite obviously the hot spring bath area, which becomes absolutely flooded with locals (and their clamourous children) on weekends. Several adjoining sections consist of swimming pools and slides that would make a commercial water park proud. From the hot springs, a broad jungle trail leads towards the canopy walk (branches off at left) and famous waterfalls of Kipungit and Langgana. Towards the back of Poring, near the reception office, visitors can explore the tropical garden (often visited by a semi-tame female Orang-Utan named 'Jackie') complete with wandering deer, and an orchid conservation center (which flowers seasonally).

Driving there is easy and takes about half-an-hour. Travel down to Kundasang and head towards Ranau, then follow the signboards to Poring. If you don't have a car, then getting there can be a little tricky and downright depressing - Once you attempt local transport and see the human side of greed. From Kinabalu Park, hail one of those old mini vans (MYR1) from the roadside for a ride down to Kundasang. In Kundasang, there will be white vans stationed in front of the vegetable market going to Ranau (20 km away) - Fare is MYR4 and the vans only leave once they're filled up. Once in Ranau, you'll see many similiar vans and taxis parked in the town center - the few among them that leave for Poring are usually waiting for passengers in front of the sundry shops. The predicament lies when you ask around for the correct vans; the eagle-eyed drivers are quick to pounce on you by offering heavily inflated rates. If you do not look even remotely local, let alone speak the language, it's excruciating to find the proper ride as all the drivers want are for you to charter whole vans for MYR30 per trip!

Because there are so few vans that actually ply this route (by virtue of Poring being a remote place with few surrounding villages to pick up locals to town), it's easy for the drivers to monopolise the public transport. The drivers are quick to come out with excuses citing the 'lack of local vans heading to Poring today, blah blah blah' in order to discourage you and gleefully get your charter. Unless you have a stroke of luck in finding the correct van (without having the driver approach you first), and boarding it quickly with some locals inside already (so that the driver can't inflate the rate as the locals will be paying the correct change of fare, right in front of your eyes when they disembark), then it's nigh impossible to find an honest driver. The locals pay only MYR3 (though they have to wait till the van is filled) compared to the tenfold amount you have to cough up. In a nutshell, visit Poring only if you have rented your own car. Otherwise, do not feed these brazen wolves who care nothing about making an honest living. Just having this experience alone can ruin your entire mood for a holiday in Borneo.

If you do attempt public transportation to Poring from Ranau, but fail to find an honest ride, then keep your principles by either abandoning the trip entirely; or walk the 18 km there and hope for a kind soul to give you a ride along the way (you must be completely prepared to finish the distance on foot - Don't expect kindness, the much vaunted hospitality of local people is highly deceptive in tourist areas; they are in no way altruistic where money-making schemes are concerned). Still, there are many tourists heading in that direction with their own cars or chartered vans, so try the universal thumbs up or offer a small token sum of MYR3-5 (if needed) to drivers that actually stop to look at you. When you do finally get there, realise that you'll face the same set of obstacles in returning to Ranau. However, it may be a little easier hitching a ride, as there are many cars and tour vans parked in Poring till sundown. Perhaps you may have some fortune in finding someone to help you (without them soliciting an enormous tip), or chance upon the actual local mini van bus picking locals to Ranau.

Sutera Sanctuary Lodges has a dominion over the resort facilities in Poring, just like Mount Kinabalu. This makes even a stay in a dorm room of the park hostel incredibly expensive, especially when you can't afford their luxury lodges. Beyond the park gate, the closest hotels are found in Ranau town (19 km away) but the neighbouring villages offer cheap homestays and budget chalets, just opposite the entrance.